If you’ve ever worked on a framing, deck build, or heavy load-bearing renovation, you know LVL (Laminated Veneer Lumber) is the workhorse of engineered wood. It’s strong, consistent, and designed to hold way more weight than solid timber, but when you’re fastening it to concrete—one of the most common, and often trickiest, base materials for structural builds—even the most experienced contractors can run into issues. As an LVL supplier with 12 years in the industry, I’ve helped hundreds of builders troubleshoot fastener fails, popped anchors, and structural gaps that ruin both timelines and budgets. Today, I’m breaking down exactly how to fasten LVL to concrete the right way, no guesswork required. LVL Board
First, let’s get one thing straight: LVL isn’t regular wood. Its laminated, grain-aligned structure means it’s far denser and less prone to splitting than solid lumber, but that also means standard wood screws or nails won’t cut it for concrete connections. Concrete is porous, subject to shifting from moisture, temperature, and ground settling, so your fasteners need to handle both the tension from the LVL’s load and the concrete’s movement. Skip the cheap “all-purpose” anchors from the big box store—we test dozens of fastener types every quarter, and the wrong choice here will leave you playing catch-up for years.
Let’s start with the prep work, because skipping this step is the #1 mistake I see new builders make. LVL needs a flat, clean surface to sit on, and concrete is notoriously uneven, especially if it’s a old slab that’s settled. First, measure the concrete’s high and low points: set a 4-foot level across the slab every 2 feet, and mark any low spots. If the gap between the LVL and concrete is more than 1/8 inch, you need a shim—metal, not wood. Wood shims rot over time when moisture seeps in, and that will throw off your load distribution fast. For gaps under 1/8 inch, you can use a two-part structural epoxy, but for anything larger, a galvanized steel shim is non-negotiable. Next, clean the concrete: sweep away all debris, then pressure wash the area to get rid of dirt, oil, or dust—even a thin layer of dust will weaken epoxy or anchor grip. Then, mark your LVL’s layout on the concrete: use a chalk line to draw straight lines where each board will sit, making sure you’re following building code for spacing—most codes require anchor spacing every 16 inches on center for load-bearing LVL, but always check your local code before starting.
Now, the big question: what fastener do you actually use? I’ve narrowed this down to three types that work for most LVL-to-concrete applications, and I’ll break down when to use each.
First, concrete screws (also called tapcon screws for the brand name we trust most). These are my go-to for most residential and light commercial builds, especially when you need a removable connection (great for temporary structures or future renovations). Concrete screws are made of hardened steel, with a special thread design that cuts into concrete as you drive it, creating a tight, secure hold. For LVL, you need screws that are at least 3/8 inch in diameter, and long enough to go through the LVL and embed 1.5 inches into the concrete. Wait, important: the total length of the screw is the thickness of the LVL plus 1.5 inches of concrete embedment. For example, if you’re using a 2-inch thick LVL, your screw needs to be at least 3.5 inches long (2 + 1.5 = 3.5). That non-negotiable 1.5 inches is key—any less, and the anchor will pull out under load. Also, get the right drill bit: never use a standard masonry bit. We recommend a carbide-tipped drill bit matched specifically to the screw size, because a too-small bit will cause the screw to seize, and a too-large bit will weaken the concrete. When drilling, use a dust extractor to suck up concrete dust as you go—dust in the hole will make the screw’s threads slip. Drive the screw with a impact driver, not a regular drill—impact drivers apply consistent torque that won’t strip the screw or cause uneven embedment. One pro tip: pre-drill a small pilot hole into the LVL first, about the same diameter as the screw’s shaft (not the threads) to make driving easier and prevent splitting, even though LVL is resistant.
Second, wedge anchors. These are for heavy-duty applications, like supporting a second-floor LVL beam or a deck ledger board that’s holding up a 20-foot span. Wedge anchors expand when you tighten the nut at the top, locking firmly into the concrete’s core. For LVL, wedge anchors need to be 1/2 inch in diameter, with a embedment depth of at least 2 inches into the concrete. So if your LVL is 2 inches thick, the total anchor length should be 4 inches (2 + 2 = 4). Wedge anchors are more work than concrete screws—you have to drill a hole slightly deeper than the embedment depth, then blow all dust out of the hole with a compressed air can before inserting the anchor. Once inserted, drive the threaded bolt through the LVL and into the anchor, then tighten the nut with a wrench until the anchor expands. One thing to note: wedge anchors are permanent, so if there’s any chance you’ll need to remove the LVL later, go with concrete screws instead. We use wedge anchors for commercial builds where load requirements are 10,000 pounds per connection or higher.
Third, structural epoxy anchors. This is the least common, but most reliable, for tricky situations—like drilling into cracked concrete, or when you need to attach LVL to a concrete wall that isn’t thick enough for standard anchors. Epoxy is a two-part adhesive that you inject into a drilled hole, then insert a threaded rod or bolt, and it cures into a rock-solid bond with the concrete. For LVL, you’ll use a threaded rod that’s 1/2 inch in diameter, embedded at least 2.5 inches into the concrete. The epoxy sets in 24 hours, so you can’t put load on the connection immediately, but it’s perfect for irregular concrete or tight spaces. The only downside is that it’s more expensive than other fasteners, and it’s overkill for most residential builds. We only recommend epoxy for specialized projects where code requires it.
Now, common mistakes that even pros make—let’s get these out of the way, because they’re the ones that cause callbacks. First, not accounting for LVL’s expansion and contraction. LVL moves with moisture and temperature—unlike solid timber, which shrinks and swinks along the grain, LVL moves across the laminations, so you need to leave a 1/8 inch gap between the end of the LVL and any concrete wall or post. If you don’t leave this gap, the LVL will bow as it expands, putting stress on the fasteners and causing them to fail. Second, drilling too shallow or too deep. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen a crew drill a 1-inch deep hole for a 1.5-inch required embedment—half the anchor is in air, not concrete, so it pulls out the second you put weight on it. Conversely, drilling too deep means there’s excess concrete dust in the hole, which weakens the anchor’s grip. Third, using the wrong fastener material. Galvanized fasteners are a must for exterior projects, or any build where moisture will be present (like basements, decks, or bathroom walls). Uncoated steel fasteners will rust, expand, and crack the concrete from the inside out, leading to structural issues over time. We always offer hot-dip galvanized or stainless steel fasteners for exterior LVL connections, even though they cost a few cents more per unit—they save you thousands in repairs later. Fourth, not testing the fastener hold. Before you finish all connections, pull one test anchor: after driving it, grab a pry bar and try to pull the LVL away from the concrete. If it moves more than 1/16 inch, that anchor is too shallow or the wrong size—pull it out and replace it before you finish the rest.
Wait, one more thing: ledger boards. If you’re fastening an LVL ledger (the board that attaches a deck to a house’s concrete foundation), this is a special case. Ledgers are subject to huge lateral loads from the deck, so you need to use bolts, not screws. We recommend 1/2 inch diameter J-bolts or eye bolts, spaced 12 inches on center, embedded 4 inches into the concrete. Never use concrete screws for deck ledgers—local building codes in most areas ban them for ledger connections because of the high load risk. Another pro tip: add a corrosion-resistant flashing between the LVL ledger and the concrete wall to keep moisture out, which prevents rot and rust on fasteners.
As an LVL supplier, I see every type of connection you can imagine, and the biggest takeaway here is that there’s no one-size-fits-all approach. A small residential basement wall might use concrete screws, a heavy commercial LVL beam will need wedge anchors, and a deck ledger will need J-bolts. Always check your local building code before starting—codes change by region, and some areas have specific requirements for LVL-to-concrete connections that go beyond what I’ve covered here.
If you’re working on a build and need guidance on which fasteners to use, or you’re looking for high-quality, code-compliant LVL boards, reach out to our team for a free consultation. We’ve supplied LVL for thousands of builds, and we’ll help you pick the right materials and fasteners to get the job done right, on time, and within budget.
PVC Formwork References
- American Wood Council. (2021). Engineered Wood Construction Guide: LVL Connections to Concrete.
- International Code Council. (2022). International Residential Code, Chapter 5: Wood Framing.
- Concrete Masonry Association of Canada. (2020). Fastening Wood to Concrete: Best Practices for Structural Applications.
- APA – The Engineered Wood Association. (2019). Load-Bearing LVL Beam Installation Guidelines.
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